Santa Clara, Portobello, Panama Canal, Panama City, Panama

Santa Clara was a welcome relief after the creepy vibe at Las Lajas. It was a beautiful incredibly wealthy beachside town. We stayed in a wonderful hotel with a clear blue pool which we had to ourselves for our whole stay, the hotel was set in beautiful gardens and there were dozens of mango trees fromwhich we plucked fresh mangoes for breakfast to stop them from going to waste. The whole town had a slight smell of rotting mangoes which was oddly pleasant. It did feel a little like a disused hollywood movie set though, the houses were elaborate mansions, yet it was like a wealthy ghost town, there was hardly a soul around. To add to the feeling of solitude the beach was bay like with totally calm water and boats anchored not far from the shore.

After lulling about by the sea we headed in land for Portobello, a small town to the north on the carribean coast. The town was a very important sea port for the Spanish and was left in ruins by English pirates, the ancient seaside city gates are in ruins, which gives the town its charm. There is a beautiful church and a gorgeous town square with semi ruined ancient buildings. Far from being overrun by tourists the town has no hotel, you have to stay 2km outside town if you want to spend the night.

Next we made our way through hours of smoggy traffic to get to the famous panama canal we sat and watched the gigantic ships passing through the Gatun Locks, designed to adjust the sea level of the craft. Passing boats can pay up to one hundred thousand dollars to use the canal. It was exciting to see these enormous boats upon whom we rely on for so many things.

We then headed for the Mira Flores locks at the other end of the panama canal, there was a museum and we learnt a lot about how they actually raise and lower the level of the boats so they can enter and exit the canal. The history of the canal was more interesting than you would think, building it at the time was an incredible effort and twenty thousand people died from yellow fever and other tropical illnesses before it was done. Watching the boats go by was soothing.

We finally made it to Panama city and had a chance to see Casco Viejo, the 'old town'. It had such an easy warm rustic charm. It has been likened to Havana and it looked and felt like I imagine Havana would be. Gorgeous old buildings with a grand and imposing yet delapidated and effortless style. We could live there and never get tired of admiring the beauty of those streets.

Now Alex has spent the day crating up the bike and preparing her for her journey north to Vancouver, we will follow in just a day. Adios Central America!